Day 14 - Uluru, back to Alice Springs

It rained all night. I had the bike inside the tent, and the tent is big enough to be comfortable, even during rain. However, it stuffed up my plans to visit the canyon.

The idea was to wake up early, go to the canyon (about 400km's) do a 3-hour walk and then head to Alice Springs before it gets dark.

But with the rain and a temperature of about 6 degC, I wasn't feeling it, so I snuggled a lot longer in a warm bed, and then made myself a hot chai tea and packup up a very wet tent.

I met a very nice retired couple from Adelaide while at the camp kitchen. he used to drive those huge road trains. I finally could get answers to all my questions:

1 - The actually have to drive the trucks, the computer that drives it automatically is a myth, it doesn't exist, all they have is cruise control

2 - The reason the wildilife is most dangerous at dawn is because they come to the edge of the roads to drink the water condensed on the tarmac and then drained to the sides of the road by its camber

3 - You can't avoid hitting the kangaroos, they jump at you from the forest and by the time you see it, you are already hitting it. They even hit the sides of the trucks, he told me that this is the reason most fuel tanks on the sides of the trucks are dented

4 - Tucks also hit cows sometimes. however, they make a lot of damage to the front of the trucks, about $80K of damage a hit. It they go over them it's even worse as they destroy air hoses and other bits under the truck.

5 - Trucks never try to avoid hitting the kangaroos, they just try to hit them with the side of the bumper, so that they move over to the shoulder of the road, otherwise they can get under and damage the air hoses, additionally, if they stay on the middle of the road, they become a danger to motorists, too.

Truckies appear to be a nice bunch of people, I had good experiences with them, they also help you overtake them by indicating when there is clearance to do it.

In fact most people had been very nice to me, almost everybody a pass, waves at me, so I started doing the same, which is interesting, because when the other driver doesn't wave back I get a tinge of rejection; funny, ha?

I lef the camping grounds from Ayers Rock with good memories. the camping is great and surprisingly reasonaby priced.

Great campgound, I recommend it. The best in Ayers Rock... and the only one

Emus in the camping

I saw an emu in the camping grounds and I wanted to touch it. The emu didn't accomodate, so I chase it for a while, he didn't appear too happy about that. Anyway, I didn't get to touch it, but I did get one of  his feathers, it is the most interesting feather that I have seen, it is actually 2 in one,




An emu feather. One root, two feathers in one.

It rained almost the whole way to Alice Springs, so I took it easy, as easy as going at 80-90K on 130K roads; better safe than sorry I thought. In any case, I was not in a hurry and it was just too cold to go too fast.

I made a few stops where there were tables with covers to prepare me another chai tea and recover some of the lost warmth. The weather wasn't helping

The cover on the side of the table is actually designed for a wood fire, but it also doubles as a good carpot (bikepot?)

A Camel Farm, can you believe it!

And here are the camels for the rides

I kept wondering why would you grow camels on a farm, and unfortunately I asked the question.

1st reason - for the tourist and the camel rides, which is a nice thing; then there is the second reason....



I am happy with the 1st reason, I am not so sure about the second, I think I'll pass.

Talking abou the 1st reason, I booked a camel ride. Interesting thing, the creature sits on the ground, so that you can get on top of it, then it stands with the rear legs first, so if you fail to follow the instruction from the guide to lean back as much as you can BEFORE it starts to stand up, you are in trouble; which was my case because when the thing started getting up, I was still wandering 'why does he want me to lean backwards?'

My ride

Hey! that's me on a camel. how 'bout that?   What's next?

Telling me to grab tight; by now I knew that I had to do what he says.

I am glad I did this ride, it was a great experience, the guide loved my bike and he explained that the bumpiness nature of the ride on the camel dissapears once the thing starts running. so he made the camel run so I could see. I didn't fall just because god is great. Then I agreed to him that when it was running it was exactly like on my Kawasaki GTR1400 tourer. I told him so, so that he didn't make it run again or did it do something else. By now I just wanted to get off the camel.

Before it sat down, I was told again to lean backwards, which this time I did, as much as I could. The camel bent the front legs first and if I hadn't leaned back, I would have fell on my nose in front of the camel; so I'm glad I followed the instructions this time.

Didn't you know that there are camels in Australia? They are not local, they were brought in first from the Canary Islands in 1840 , then more from India and Pakistan, they were usually brought with Afghani people to handle them. They were used for the construction of the telegraph and for the supply of goods to Alice Springs and other settlements. However in the 1920's most of them were released into the wild, where they soon established large herds in many semi-desertic areas of Australia.

After that experience and a hot chocolate at the camel shop, I continued the trip to Alice Springs, then I crossed one of the inland rivers and took a photo of this sign. The reason? You know the TV program 'Man vs Wild'? Bear Grillis tells us that whenever you are lost, you have to try to find a river and then follow it, this is because (according to him) all rivers end up on the sea, where there are people. This is however not true with the Australian inland rivers, they do not end up on the sea, they evaporate or dissapear into the ground, some rivers end up in the Simpson Desert, so if you follow one of those, you'll end up in one of the most remote and driest places on earth.

The inland rivers



Finally, arrived in Alice Springs, just before dark, it'll be a refreshing change to put up the tent in sunlight.

I met a lot of people during this trip and they ar all interesting in one way or another. I just had a yarn with the guard at the camping ground, he was born in the Nederlands and came to Oz when he was just 8. since then he has never left Alice Springs, he is near 80 now. he said he has a lot of family in his mother country but he never visited them, nor he'll ever will. he said he is happy in Alice Springs, he never visited any other place in Australia or the world.

I think that this is sad. On the one hand it is good that he is happy where he is. I guess this is a good thing. However, I believe that the world can be compared to a good book. However, if you don't travel, you just keep reading one page of this book and miss all the others.

Day 11 - Mount Isa to Barkly Homestead

Day 11 - Mount Isa to Barkly Homestead

This morning I met with a very nice group of people doing the same thing that I am doing; going around Oz on a motorbike. So, it's confirmed; I am not the only one that is crazy, ther are others like me.

The trip from Mt Isa was a very smooth run, in the beginning we continued on the Selwyn ranges and then it was flat for as far as you can see.

After a little while we arrived to Camooweal, we had coffee there and fuel. I was surprised to find that the price was $1.97/litre.

We took a photo here of our group.



The 'ccbikers' in Camooweal



Another view, from the left: Colin and Loeen (2 up), John, Jim, Phil, me, Kevin

They have a group in the Central Coast, their website is www.ccbikers.com and they organise rides every 2 weeks or so.
Shortly after leaving Camooweal, we were at the border with the Northern Territory, with the relative freedom of 130km/h limit (in every other state, it is 110km/h)




Petrol prices at Camooweal




A sign at Camooweal




Queensland 5 years ahead of NT? After seen the speed limits and the quality of the roads in the NT, I am not so sure...


The only indication I had that we changed state was the sign that said it, and the new speed limits. Other than that, the roads were very good and they werre straight. Only after about 1/2 hour we found a slight s-bend, ther than that, the scenery was the same the whole time, just a feeling of being in the middle of nowhere, with the horizon all around you, no trees, no animals, no fences, no towns, no nothing.




Gus at the border




The team at the border


We encountered huge Road Trains, and now something worse than that; we found trucks that cover almost the whole of the road, both lanes, leaving only about 1/2 metre on one side for our bikes to get through when overtaking them. Cars just move out of the road, but we can't do that on a bike. I wonder what will happen if we meet one coming in the opposite direction. Not something I am looking forward to.




I saw this picture of the type of Road Trains that we might encounter when we reach the WA minefields.



Anyway, between Camooweal and the Barkly Roadhous there is nothing, no petrol stops, no campings, only the odd rest area every 80kms or so; all we found was an apparet unending stretch of straight road. When we arrived to the Barkly Roadhouse it was a refreshing change. We got a shock however with the price of petrol, $2.09 a litre! I will probably take advantage of my 7 litres emergency fuel here and then refuel when I get to the Stuart Highway, it has to be cheaper there as there will be more competition, here the Barkly roadhouse has a monopoly, so they charge what they want.


Here we are, all camping on a nice patch of grass, for $10 a head




I set up my tent in 3 minutes approx, the design of the tent proves again and again to be the best for this trip



I keep finding signs like this one. Something strage happens in this area of Australia



Another use for the handlebars that you probably haven't thought of before

 Set up my tent, had a good feed at the Roadhouse, a quick chat with the guys and soon will go for a shower and into the envelope for another needed rest.

Tomorrow will separate from the group when we reach the Threeways at the Stuart Highway, the group is heading north to Darwin, but I am going south to visit the Devils Marbles first. I really want to see them, I am told that they are spectacular and that the photos do not make them justice. I will probably re-join the group in a day or 2.

Tomorrow I will camp at the Marbles, ther is no formal camping ground there, I will be camping int he middle of nowhere, under the stars; I dont; expect that I will have mobile signal, let alone internet, so tomorrow I might not be able to post anything. However, teh next day I will, and I expect that the photos fromt eh Marbles will be great, i will make sure I take photos at the sunset and at the sunrise. Cheers!

Day 9 - Winton to Mount Isa

Day 9 - Winton to Mount Isa

I thought that it is about time to put a map indicating what I've done so far. Here it is.

Sydney to Mount Isa

The nights here are very, very cold. This morning it was 6 degC




Cold, cold...



Just before leaving I saw this baby Harley.

The road leaving Winton is interesting. It starts with full vegetation and then slowly and clearly, as it approaches Cloncurry it became barren and dry.

Nice, barren landscape

Some beautiful rock formations, the one on the left, I mean.

The flat area is spotted with small short and flat mountains, the aborigines call them 'jumps'


The 'Jumps' in the horizon

After leaving Winton, thre was a sign indicasting petrol at 180km, when I arrived this service station, it's pumps were faulty (for some time apparently) and there was a caravan there that didn't think they'd make it to the next town.

Caravans in trouble

Of course I didn't have a problem, as my range is now near 600 km, so I can now even travel for a full day and will not need refuelling (i.e. Sunday).

I stopped at this very old Roadhouse, outside there were 3 huge brolgas.




The 'Blue Heeler' Roadhouse, on the Matilda Highway

Brolgas

On the way, I saw this sign, for all the ones out there that didn't believe me about the lengh of the Road Trains.

Here it is closer, in case you missed it

Termite city, a huge quantity of termite mounds, they were everywhere. Termites, anyone?

Another view of the termites

 On the way, I found this Memorial to Burke and Wills. Apparently they passed this area. The story of Burke and Wills is very close to my heart. One of the first books I read about Australia, before choosing this country as my own, was the one describing their fateful journey. since then I wanted to travel this wonderful country.

This is a memorial conmemorating Burke and Wills

When I arrived at Cloncurry, I went to visit a friend of mine that was working at the Oasis Hotel. Her name is Shelly.

Some interesting contraption at the Oasis. I would love to try one of these.

Do they have anything against the irish?

In case you are wondering; a gidgee is a type of wood found on the Acacia trees.



Finally got to the 'Isa' Apparently now I am a real aussie.

I might be a real aussie now, but I am also really tired and this night I will splurge in a bit of cabin luxury. I miss a soft comfy bed.

Day 8 - Barcaldine to Winton

Day 8 - Barcaldine to Winton

Left the Camping at Barcaldine with regret, this place is really nice, if you're ever in this area, come to camp here; and try to arrive before 4PM, there is a show at this time where they make dampers with music and storytelling.




The camping at Barcaldine

Nice road, better than I expected. The things I noticed the most was the amount of roadkill and how the vegetation is becaming increasingly sparse and arid.

Nobody, and I mean nobody, respects the speed limit of 110kmh, it's eerie, it's like it's expected and tolerated.

The Road Trains are also becoming  bigger, up unitl now they had 3 trailers, apparetnly from here they will have 4, and exceed the 50 metres.



This is how you know you are behind a Road Train. It's not easy to overtake them. it takes for ever.



All creatures, big and small. This is a 3-trailer one, maybe later I'll catch a photo of a 4-trailer. This is however, scary enough for me. I am not looking forward to face the bigger ones.

On the way to Winton I made a stop in Longreach, there is a museum there dedicated to the founders of Qantas. Apparently Qantas was first formed in this area.




Entry to Longreach



This is the first 747 delivered to Qantas, it is now a museum piece



Did I say something about big and small creatures?

Getting closer to Winton, the heat also starts to show. Look at how they keep the chocolates here in the shops.

Chocolates kept in fridges

On the way here, I noticed how the farmers control the sheep. They don't use horses any more, but motorbikes, look at this.

XXI Century horse

Finally arrived in Winton, somewhat earler than expected, but this is the result of indecent speeds. In any case, I cannot continue, because if I did so, I wouldn't reach the next town before dusk. After dusk is when all the animals come out, and at that time, only the Road Trains can brave the road, they are the ones making all the roadkill.

In the area surrounding Winton, they have found a lot of fossils and dinosaur bones, there is a craze here about dinosaurs, just look at the Council rubbish bins

Before the end of the day, I had a little time to visit some of the museums and attractions of Winton, here is the tracks from dinosaurs, called the 'stampede', the tracks became fossilised in the clay and they covered with sand. This is what they look like




Dinosaur tracks on the fossilised mud

I also had a cold beer at the local pub, which incredibly has a lot of history, in fact, it was compleely destroyed and re-built 3 times.



The 'famous' North Gregory Hotel

For the night, I booked into the Matilda Tourist Park, nice neat place (and very cheap)


I booked into the Matilda Country Tourist Park and tonight they had a show with 2 poetry-comedians



One of the comedians brought her father to the stage, you can see where she got it from. Very funny.

Their names are Mel and Susie.

I found that I had to add some spare fuel, just in case. With 27 litres now, at 5 l/100km, I now have a range of about 600km, which is reassuring.

Another interesting bit of trivia about Winton is that the water here smells like rotten eggs, I found that this is because the water here is artesian and comes mixed with sulphur, which is a gas that gives this smell. The water is drinkable though, but the smell turns you off.